Tenon Recorking
Tenon recorking was pretty fun to learn, it definetly takes a bit of time and precision but overall its not overly complicated.
First I removed as much of the old cork and glue as I could. This was so the new glue would stick better.
Then I measured the width of the space the cork should fit in, marked it on the sheet of cork, and cut it to a longer length than I needed.
I took the strip of cork and beveled one end of it at a rough 45 degree angle. With that done I softened the cork by squishing it in a smooth vice. This helps prevent the cork from cracking when you wrap it around the tenon.
Then a thin layer of contact cement was applied to the tenon, the back side of the cork, and the spot I beveled.
Once the glue had dried and was a bit tacky (contact cement will not cure if it is too thick) I stuck it onto the tenon and wrapped it around making sure that the seam will be at the back of the horn. Once fully wrapped around the tenon I went back around a few times pressing on it to make sure there was fully adheared to the horn.
The next step was to cut off the tail and sand all around until the other side of the joint fit about 1/3 to 1/2 way up the tenon pretty tight. I also made sure to bevel the edges so the player is less likly to tear the cork.
The first step in finishing the cork is to make is waterproof. This is done by adding parafin wax to the cork and melting it in using a torch at a distance and not burning the cork. This can help the cork last longer, and it looks nice.
Finaly it was time to add cork grease and let it compress with the other side of the joint for about 15-30 minutes. Check the fit again and if you are satisfied with it, you are done! These are pictures of after this tenon had been completely finished. (These last pictures are of the bell tenon. I forgot to take a photo of the barrel tenon)
Nice job, Katy! I felt like I was there with you every step of the way.
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